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I’d say it’s the first time I’ve ever felt this kind of prolonged anxiety before. Each step took me closer to the inevitable. I boarded the plane in Queensland behind Kiter Ben Wilson, who was also at Cloudbreak on the last giant swell with Pozza.
“Best forecast I’ve see for a year” he reassures me. My confidence was up and down as I tried to visualize waves of that size, knowing I could handle it, but then imagining eating it and what a hold-down on such a wave would be like. For it was on Namotu for the PWA comp we had back-in-the-day that I had one of the nastiest three-wave hold-downs I can remember, and it was all coming flooding back to poke the nerve that was flaring.
